Fruit can mimic anything. Wear any costume. Paint a picture as nuanced and deep as a photograph. Just zoom out a bit from the vaulted ceiling of purply pink berries, plums, tamarillo and Szechuan pepper and you have a malbec that paints an incredible scene. Like a magic eye painting, you’ll perceive things within and without: sometimes clear, other times as nebulous and unknowable as what you can only call ‘rustic’.