This cool-climate syrah is paradoxically warm and spicy, with pepper, berries and mustard powder on the palate and violets on the nose. A head-scratcher featuring piripiri, ground cherry, mustard powder. Cold might make things shrink. But here it gives scale, stamina, focus. Greengages and fridge-cured watermelon evoke long hot summers. Even if the grapes needed a jersey. Smell the violets and imagine a trip to Hawke’s Bay via Spain.