A Kiwi Blanc de Noirs that brings red fruit depth to a white sparkling wine. Plum and boysenberry flavours from a pale liquid. A riddle that makes you think about what ‘redness’ is or how hardwired some associations are. And if this is possible, there’s probably a 20-year-old Burgundy out there that’s as briochy and apricotey as champagne. Yes, it’s a little confusing. Yes, it works.