You have to peel it. Break through the ceiling of raw effervescence and carbonated static, before you get to the heart of it. There it is. A tide of lemon balm and panforte and sweetness and all the light in the world. But you’ll still remember the fizzy tickle you got on its way in from Maison Mumm’s most prestigious RSRV 2008 Cuvée, with no tide to take it away.