The palate of this shiraz brings controversy, in the form of cloves: the most polarising spice in the universe. For some, a reminder of the dentist’s chair. For others, the Northern Hemisphere Christmases of their backpacking days. But when you dial cloves back, is when their real strength shines through. They lift others up. They bridge the gap. A teeny tiny bit with chocolate, cherries, smoke, tannin, makes everything deeper and fuller. Nothing controversial about it.