The smell of weight. Slightly tarry, blackened, gamey. Almost acetone-like in its punch. But peel back the charred outer layer of this Barossa shiraz and you’ll find fleshy, fruity notes that slip around you like a spell. The mouth feels fresh, fine, in total denial of the nose. Dried tomatoes and fig with tannic pips make it all make sense. (Even if weight doesn’t have a smell.)