It’s not that kind of sparkling that tastes like an orchestra tuning their instruments pre-show. As if we’re supposed to be grateful for the boisterous cacophony. We want the real show. It’s when the curtains go up, this blanc de noirs emerges. 100% pinot noir grapes command an audience, delicately. Moving between wind instrumentals and stage-whispers of a bygone French soirée, to brioche and plum. Specific and aloof. Two ends of the earth.