No doubt, this Tawny has heft. Making you feel (just a tiny bit) like that one sip compressed your height by a few millimetres. But it’s not syrupy. Not sticky. Just ponderous like a gigantic labrador so old he can barely see, but holds more wisdom than all of us. There’s a hint of tartness, too. A faint murky undercurrent. You’ll only know if you let the port do its work, and sink.