This fortified take on a famed Portuguese varietal is a roll-call of contradictions. Imagine if port were a cabernet. If leather were iron. If silk were sandpaper. If sweetness were an acquired taste. If brutalism had curlicues. If a safe door flew open at the touch. If flowers snapped and crackled. Fine, luscious, ascetic, smoky, young, venerable, slate-like, glossy, wonderful. Best drunk as an aperitif, even with a cube of ice, or as a post-dinner tipple.